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September 8th, 2010
Chickens not only feed on insects, seeds, corns, grains, and other plant life. They also eat worms. Several poultry keepers use Red Worms as Organic Chicken Feed for their livestock. Worms are in fact, packed with nutrients; and is actually high in protein (amongst other essential feed ingredients). They’re not only used as bait for fish, or as a live worm food for other kinds of animals. They can be a really great supplement to backyard chickens as well.
Manage Your Own Worm Food Supply Through Vermicomposting
Now, as another alternative to commercially available poultry feed, chicken breeders can also benefit a lot from vermicomposting. They get the chance to keep a continuous supply of red worms, that can be made available as chicken feed, whenever they need it. It’s convenient to have, easy to manage, and is very inexpensive to maintain. There are also a lot of red wigglers for sale that can be bought straight from a local bait shop, or through gardening stores (both local or online).
So, let’s just say that you’ve already got into some worm composting of your own; and have started to put together a well-maintained and moist worm bin (there are a lot of worm bins for sale with all its other variations and materials). Now, red worms aren’t that hard to breed and raise. You just have to feed them appropriately, and replenish their surroundings with fresh bedding when needed. It’s really just the same like raising chickens. Anyway, red worms get to reproduce every six weeks. Reproduction is continuous so you wouldn’t have to worm about running out of worm supply. Unless you’ve mismanaged in giving the right care for your worms, then they’re likely to die real early.
Anyway, buy composting worms of your choice. You can use nightcrawlers or red worms. But either way, both are still good food sources for your chickens. Anyhow, moving on, after probably the six week duration, you can check to see if your worms are ready to be cultivated from their bin. Try to get first those that are on the active top layer of the compost worm bin. Now, if you get to harvest some composting material through the process, make sure to put these back in the bin. You can use these later on, for other fertilizing means.
Worm Harvesting
Now, as soon as you’ve harvested a few worms, you can then place them inside the small chicken coops or in the chicken houses (these are appropriate places when it comes to keeping chickens). The chickens will then be able to eat these worms off from the ground. These worms can definitely be fed to your livestock, at their living forms.
But there’s also another alternative to feeding worms to chickens. You can choose to dry them, and then grind them. You can dry worms by placing them under an electric light bulb, or place them inside an oven gas pilot light. Other than that, you can place these worms to dry out inside a greenhouse. And as soon as they’re dry, and ready to be crushed, you may then add the crushed worm pieces as an additive to your usual chicken food supply. Red Worms as Organic Chicken Feed can definitely be a good option for you to tap in, other than spending greatly on products from chicken feed suppliers.
 Buy you own batch for only $23.49. Get yours shipped to your home, guaranteed live! Our Red Wriggler Worms will make sure to help improve your soil’s physical structure, enrich it with a lot of micro-organisms, improve its water retention capability, and more! Experience more benefits when you buys your own batch from us today.
To know more about the product, check the Red Wiggler Worms here.
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Tags: backyard, chicken feed suppliers, chicken food, chicken houses, feed ingredients, keeping chickens, poultry feed, raising chickens, small chicken coops
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August 29th, 2010
If you’re a recycling enthusiast, then the Can-O-Worms stacking unit is the best composting system for you, especially if you’re into using Red Worms for Composting. The can-o-worms composting unit has an odorless approach to recycling, and is very user-friendly. The results that you may get from composting your daily organic wastes will definitely help you enrich your garden; and also help you in minimizing landfill accumulation. It can be simply placed inside your home (for indoor houseplants), or anywhere in your backyard. It’s that accessible and convenient to have around.
How to Set-up the CAN-O-WORMS
You can start by putting you worm bin together right away. Make sure that food is made available (inside the bin) before the worms arrive (you can buy red worms from any local bait shop or from us!). But aside from that, prepare your bedding materials for your worm bin. You can use coconut coir for the bedding, with some warm water to help moisten it.
So, going back to the your can-o-worms, you may now proceed to fixing the five legs into the holes of the collector tray (lightly hit the tray down to fasten the legs to it). Now, screw in the spigot from the outer part of the bin (this tap drain feature on the bottom tray will help in collecting the worm tea).
After that, set-up the base tray with a layer of newspaper (about 4 pieces), while covering the holes. Now, put in some of your water soaked coconut coir, and then squeeze these so that the excess water will be removed. Make sure that the bedding for your worms (used for organic composting) should be moist, and not soaking wet. Anyway, when you’re done with the bedding materials, you may now mix in some soil, and two handfuls of organic waste (you may put kitchen scraps and garden wastes on top of the coir). Next, envelop it with some presoaked newspaper again (about 4 inches thick). As soon as you get a hold of your worms, you may immediately place them on the surface, just underneath the layer of newspapers.
What to do next
Of course, you were only able to arrange the first tray, so when do we add the remaining ones? When the first tray has finally been filled up with worm castings (when the height of the bin contents have reached two inches on top of the trays inner ribs), then you may place another tray. You can put in about an inch worth of worm farm compost into the new tray. But do make sure that the first tray still comes into contact with the base of the second tray. The second tray should then be topped off with a new batch of wet newspaper (should be damp). Also, you can only start harvesting the worm castings as soon as the third tray gets full. You may then empty the bottom tray, and then place it on top as the new upper tray.
You also have to keep the can-o-worms and red worms for composting well-maintained at all times. Your red worms will surely travel back down if the temperature in its environment gets too watery, or if it gets too hot. So, one of the things that you can do is to clean the collector tray probably once a month.
Our Can-O-Worms will help you harvest your worm casts in an instant. Not only that, it’s user-friendly and is ideal for use, especially for first time composters and kids. It also has a handy tap, for where to collect and dispense that valuable ‘Worm Tea’. It also comes complete with a collector tray, five push-fit legs, a plastic drainage tap, and more!
To know more about the product, check the Can-O-Worms here.
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Tags: buy red worms, can-o-worms composting, organic composting, red worms, worm bin compost, worm farm compost
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August 26th, 2010
 Getting rid of pests is not easy, but it’ll be better to catch these early. Of course, you wouldn’t want to keep the problem from getting any bigger, so it’ll be best to find a solution in killing these insects and rodents. So instead of using chemicals for killing these pests, it’ll still be advisable to use natural pest control instead (a lot safer for humans and pets). You can always choose to use your own methods; and may find a lot of handy things in the house that you can use for your do it yourself pest control project.
Here are some handy tips that you can use to get rid of the pests in your garden, yard, or in the house.
Tip 1: For pests in the garden, you can perhaps try mixing 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap, and a cup worth of cooking oil (any kind will do). Take about 3 tablespoons from this mixture, and then dilute with ¼ cup of water; and then put the contents of this mixture in a spray bottle. For another natural pesticide mix, you can probably try soaking in water some peels from citrus-based fruits. You can also put this mixture inside a spray bottle.
Tip 2: If you see quite an invasion of ants on your kitchen shelves, or in any part of your kitchen, you can always try putting some cucumber peels on these areas to put them off; or spray some water mixed with vinegar, on these areas. You can also use cinnamon to repel ants (you may apply this by sprinkling some on the ants).
Tip 3: Basil, if you will know, can also be used as an organic insecticide. You can try mixing your own by soaking some basil leaves in hot water. You should then pour the hot water with basil leaves into an aroma pot of sorts. The scent coming out of the pot will definitely keep the flies away.
Tip 4: You can also try planting your own peppermint plants at home. Peppermint can also be used as an organic pest control for mice and ants.
Tip 5: Now if you have moths wandering in your house, then you can always choose to use mint teabags to help repel these insects (another natural pest killer type). You can place these teabags either in your drawers, or in your closet. It’ll also be a good alternative to moth balls (as these expel a really off-putting smell).
There are many more do it yourself pest control methods that you can use whenever the need arises. So it’s best to practice these, and to always use a pest killer that is not toxic. But there is one more very effective method in keeping insects from infesting your garden, yard or home, and that is Sanitation. The best way to keep pest infestations from occurring is to practice proper sanitation (the best and most effective pest control method). So refrain from leaving dirty dishes in the sink, and always try to clean up after eating. You can also do some regular cleaning in the house, garden and yard as a preventive measure.
For only $26.95, the Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellent will provide you so many beneficial stuff. It not only is safe to use around your family and pets, it won’t also harm your vegetation. It’s all natural (with cedarwood, lemon grass and citronellla contents), and also smells great! Bring this with you for outdoor gatherings (or anywhere), and see how it effectively works. Order yours now!
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Tags: natural pest control, natural pest killer, organic pest control, pest killer, pesticide
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August 23rd, 2010
If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.
So what are grubs exactly? Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.
White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.
So what can you do to control grubs? If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.
Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).
You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.
Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).
GardenWorms.com recommends the Milky Spore Grub Control
Get the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.
To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.
 If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.
So what are grubs exactly?
Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.
White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.
What can you do to control grubs?
If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.
Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).
You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.
Organic Pesticides for Grubs
Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).
Get the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.
To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.
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Tags: Chafer grubs, control grubs, get rid of grubs, grub worm, kill grubs, killing grubs, Milky Spore Grub Control, organic grub control, organic pesticides, white grubs
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August 20th, 2010
Leaves, usually termed as Gardener’s Gold, are not only used for composting. There’s actually another alternative to making good use of leaves, and that is through leaf mulching. Now, as soon as the leaves are shredded, you can immediately use this as leaf mulch, compared to the process that composting leaves have to go through (usually takes a longer time for the leaves to turn into compost).
So, how do you make mulching leaves? Well, if you want to mulch leaves, it’ll be a good idea to have a leaf shredder that you can immediately use, to help save you from shredding the leaves by hand (or through other sluggish means); or save you time rather. You can also consider leaf raking, as this also helps in shredding the leaves during the process. You can possibly mow them over a couple of times too if you want. Also, it’s better to use leaves that are already in a shredded state, rather than using whole ones. Whole leaves are likely to mat in the process; and takes time before it gets really absorbed by the soil.
Also, this mulching process also proves to be another cost-effective option, as the leaves that you’ll be using are all free for the taking. You can probably collect as much from the ground, as soon as they fall from the tree/s. You can also consider using garden leaf collectors, like a leaf sweeper perhaps, to help speed up the gathering of these leaves.
Anyway, leaf mulchers also work as a good compost material. Apart from that, mulch from leaves also helps in filling in the soil with the nutrients that it needs. Mulch made from leaves are also safe to use since they’re rarely used with any type of chemical stimulants. But using mulch in this composition also has it disadvantages. Not only does it require a lot of effort to do, it also creates a breeding ground for insect activity. Now, if you weren’t able to maintain the mulch on your garden or lawn, then it can possibly result to molding and bad odors. Of course, if you weren’t able to spread it properly on the ground, then it can also be blown away by strong winds. But if you were to give it much attention, then for sure, your trees, shrub beds, gardens will be able to benefit from it. This type of mulch can also help oppress weeds from growing any further. So it can definitely be made into an organic weed control as well.
You can also keep the leaves inside a rotating compost bin as soon as they’re ready for use. Of course, this process of making your own organic fertilizer can also help you save money, so it’s that rewarding. And you’ll no longer have to buy those fertilizers in the market, or even resort to using those chemically based products for your plants and soil. You’ll be happy to know that given some time, you’ll be able to see the results brought about by your leaf mulching activity. You’ll notice soon enough (you’ll see great changes in your garden or lawn) that the mulch from leaves has finally been absorbed into the soil.
GardenWorms.com recommends the Lawn Sweeper
Let the Lawn Sweeper help you save time and energy. So instead of raking the leaves off of the ground, use the Lawn Sweeper as another alternative. And it’ll only take 4 bolts to assemble it! Not only that, it also features 10-inch Precision Molded Plastic Wheels, a Butterfly handle, and a Rear Swivel for easy maneuvering. It also has a removable hamper that allows for easy dumping, and also paves way for a fold away storage.
To know more about the product, check the Lawn Sweeper here.
 Leaves, usually termed as Gardener’s Gold, are not only used for composting. There’s actually another alternative to making good use of leaves, and that is through leaf mulching. Now, as soon as the leaves are shredded, you can immediately use this as leaf mulch, compared to the process that composting leaves have to go through (usually takes a longer time for the leaves to turn into compost).
So, how do you make mulching leaves? Well, if you want to mulch leaves, it’ll be a good idea to have a leaf shredder that you can immediately use, to help save you from shredding the leaves by hand (or through other sluggish means); or save you time rather. You can also consider leaf raking, as this also helps in shredding the leaves during the process. You can possibly mow them over a couple of times too if you want. Also, it’s better to use leaves that are already in a shredded state, rather than using whole ones. Whole leaves are likely to mat in the process; and takes time before it gets really absorbed by the soil.
Also, this mulching process also proves to be another cost-effective option, as the leaves that you’ll be using are all free for the taking. You can probably collect as much from the ground, as soon as they fall from the tree/s. You can also consider using garden leaf collectors, like a leaf sweeper perhaps, to help speed up the gathering of these leaves.
Anyway, leaf mulchers also work as a good compost material. Apart from that, mulch from leaves also helps in filling in the soil with the nutrients that it needs. Mulch made from leaves are also safe to use since they’re rarely used with any type of chemical stimulants. But using mulch in this composition also has it disadvantages. Not only does it require a lot of effort to do, it also creates a breeding ground for insect activity. Now, if you weren’t able to maintain the mulch on your garden or lawn, then it can possibly result to molding and bad odors. Of course, if you weren’t able to spread it properly on the ground, then it can also be blown away by strong winds. But if you were to give it much attention, then for sure, your trees, shrub beds, gardens will be able to benefit from it. This type of mulch can also help oppress weeds from growing any further. So it can definitely be made into an organic weed control as well.
You can also keep the leaves inside a rotating compost bin as soon as they’re ready for use. Of course, this process of making your own organic fertilizer can also help you save money, so it’s that rewarding. And you’ll no longer have to buy those fertilizers in the market, or even resort to using those chemically based products for your plants and soil. You’ll be happy to know that given some time, you’ll be able to see the results brought about by your leaf mulching activity. You’ll notice soon enough (you’ll see great changes in your garden or lawn) that the mulch from leaves has finally been absorbed into the soil.
GardenWorms.com recommends the Lawn Sweeper
Let the Lawn Sweeper help you save time and energy. So instead of raking the leaves off of the ground, use the Lawn Sweeper as another alternative. And it’ll only take 4 bolts to assemble it! Not only that, it also features 10-inch Precision Molded Plastic Wheels, a Butterfly handle, and a Rear Swivel for easy maneuvering. It also has a removable hamper that allows for easy dumping, and also paves way for a fold away storage.
To know more about the product, check the Lawn Sweeper here.
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Tags: garden leaf collectors, leaf mulch, leaf mulchers, leaf raking, leaf sweeper, mulching leaves, rotating compost bin
Posted in Worm Composting | No Comments »
August 17th, 2010
Have you ever experienced seeing tunnels in some parts of your yard or shrubbery? Chances are, Moles and Voles are wandering around your turf. Voles and Moles may probably do a few of the same things, but they are definitely two different animals. To even get rid of them, they’ll also require different kinds of pest control (you can also use organic pest control).
So let’s start with Moles. A garden mole is a very reserved creature. You’ll be able to recognize it for its short neck, long pointed snout, ears that are barely discernible, tiny eyes, brawny forelegs, and clawed feet. They are usually 5 to 8 inches long; and can be in dark-gray or black color.
Although they can be harmless to humans and pets, they can definitely post injury into your garden. They usually do a lot of digging when they search for food (they eat earthworms too!), so plants that are in its way will surely be uprooted. The tunnels that they leave out can also ruin the look of your lawn. Getting rid of Moles from your lawn may be hard to do, and they can really get themselves isolated from people. But what you can do is to control them in a less-toxic way. You can also repel them by using an organic based mole repellent; or by simply applying organic insecticides to their food source. Of course, when you take out the things (insects, grubs and earthworms) that they eat, then they will more or less start leaving your yard alone.
Now Voles on the other hand are small rodents; and they usually cause more damage than Moles. Apart from that. you’ll also see them present in fields and amidst shrubs. They also have small eyes, and have tails on them. They’re also typically gray or brown in color; and can grow as long as 3 to 5 inches long. They also dig tunnels (usually just settles in tunnels that have been previously created by Moles) and burrow underground. You’ll know they’re present in your lawn or shrubbery if you see holes in the area as big as golf balls.
They can also bring damage to your yard by simply eating flower bulbs, fruit trees, vegetables from the garden, and shrubs. They can further do damage by also removing the stems from your plants, and by chewing on your plants roots. They can be that hostile but you can still control them. You can probably try using vole bait or mole traps to catch them. Place these only in areas where you think they are present. You can try covering these traps under some soil, where its near their tunnels, or near their most favored areas. You can also put in wire guards around your foliage to further give them protection from voles.
Take note that Moles and Voles are not the same, but you can use some of the pest control methods used for moles on voles. But if your manual methods don’t work, then you can always ask some professional help from companies that specialize in pest control.
GardenWorms.com recommends the Holy Moley- Mole Repellent
Get the Holy Moley- Mole Repellent for just $19.95! It’s organic based (made from Castor oil and Fuller’s Earth), and is definitely safe to use around humans and pets. Use it to repel Moles in two ways: through scent and taste. Purchase yours now!
To know more about the product, check the Holy Moley- Mole Repellent here.
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Tags: lawn pest, moles and voles, pest
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August 15th, 2010
 When it comes to worms, Raising Nightcrawlers, is also one of the most considered for worm composting. Although they’re more preferred as fish bait, and as live worm food for other animals, nightcrawlers can still be considered for composting. Although they don’t mature or reproduce as fast as red wrigglers, they can still do the job.
European Nightcrawlers and others of its kind (African and Canadian) are usually referred to as ‘Super Redworms’. But other than that, they make sumptuous treats for fish, turtles, exotic pets, and some reptiles. They’re known for their incessant twisting, and moving about on fish hooks, even when submerged in water. You can always feed them live, or have them cut into smaller pieces.
And just like their worm cousins, the red worms, the nightcrawler worms aren’t that difficult to raise. To achieve good results when raising your nightcrawlers, you must first provide them a good worm bedding (you can either make it or buy this at the market). So, as soon as you’ve gotten your fill of worm bedding (can be a mixture of peat moss and coconut coir), you can pour this in the bin, at just half full. Add some water afterwards but make sure to pour in just enough to make the bedding moist (and not soaking wet). After this, start putting in your nightcrawlers, and then put in some presoaked newspaper shreds or cardboard afterwards. Take note that you’ll have to place these on top of the bedding.
Now, what you should do next is to check the temperature of the area where you’ve placed your worm bin. Of course, placing your worms in a temperature they favor will make them thrive better. The best temperatures for them would be 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll also have to maintain a bedding that has a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0.
Also take note that aside from your worm bedding being moist (should be as damp as a wrung out sponge), it should also be kept loose. A loose and moist bedding will allow them to burrow comfortably. You’d like to keep it that way, rather than drown them from overwatering their bin. Anyway, when it comes to feeding nightcrawlers, take note that they should not be fed for the first 2 to 3 days. Get them settled in their new home first. And soon after this, you may now start feeding them. You can put in all sorts of organic wastes; and they’ll eat what red wrigglers eat. Just make sure that you don’t feed them stuff that has dairy or meat on them. Doing so will lead to a smelly bin. Plus, it will also attract unwanted pests to the worm bin.
When you’re feeding your nightcrawlers (you can feed them at least twice a week), it’s best not to mix the food wastes on the bedding. Keep the food buried in the ground for about two inches deep. This way, you’re worms will definitely have to work themselves up to eat.
After some time, they’ll be able to produce their eggs; and will be able to multiply in number soon after. And aside from making good use of them, you can actually make a profit out of selling nightcrawlers. There is a sure market of commercial growers and fishermen who are just ready to buy nightcrawlers from you.
GardenWorms.com recommends the 1000 Super Reds or European Nightcrawlers
European Nightcrawlers can make really great composting worms. And unlike red worms, they can still grown as long as 6 inches (five times bigger than red worms)! They’re easy to raise, are tolerable to hot and cold temperatures, and is an excellent choice for fish bait. Order yours now!
To know more about the product, check the 1000 Super Reds or European Nightcrawlers here.
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Tags: European Nightcrawlers, super red worms
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August 11th, 2010
Ever wondered what you can still do with the leaves scattered on your garden, after they’ve fallen from the tree or from your plants? Well, you can still make good use of them. You can make compost out of it, since it can be a good source of nutrients. They’re actually referred to as ‘Gardeners’ Gold’. So, if you’re not thinking about raking them off of your garden just to throw them away, you can always turn them into lawn compost. Composting leaves is actually another alternative to making organic fertilizer; and also a great way into giving your garden a natural enhancement.
Since leaves are fibrous and full of nutrients, these help make the soil’s composition and aeration better. Take note that leaves from plants and trees are usually the recipients of trace minerals that have been gathered from the soil. So composting leaves is really one good way of recycling. You can definitely turn these into valuable compost instead of throwing them away as garbage.
So before you go right ahead in to composting these, you should know that you can compost any type of leaf. You can start by shredding the leaves into smaller pieces (before adding them into an Urban Compost Tumbler for example), as this will help save some space inside the tumbler; and to also minimize the tendency of the leaves to mat. But don’t worry, you don’t have to do this by hand. You can always turn to mowing them over (use the lawn mower), or you can always buy those shredders/chippers from the market. Anyway, when composting your leaves, you should also add into your composter some nitrogen. Nitrogen actually helps your leaves to rot fast. Nitrogen can be in the form of days old manure, dried blood, and some bone meal (also add in some, yard clippings, eggshells, and coffee grounds). And as soon as you’ve combined these materials together, you may now add in some water. Make sure the content’s are left moist and not soaking wet (this will ruin your compost); and also turn your compost, via the compost tumbler, on a daily basis to aerate it. Compost tumblers by the way, helps speed up the process of composting compared to ordinary compost bins.
It would also help to take note the colors of your leaves, as this will also determine the right quantity that you should put into your rotating composter. Green leaves (usually from trees) for example, should only be added in a reasonable quantity. For Red or Yellow leaves, you may put just a few of these inside your eco composter. Brown leaves on the other hand, should not be added into your compost, as these will work better as leaf mold. Other than composting leaves, you can also turn these into some leaf mold. And if leaves don’t satisfy you enough. You can always resort to grass composting.
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August 5th, 2010
When your lawn is not maintained as it should be, then there are chances that it can be infested with different kinds of lawn pest. Having these insects present in your lawn will definitely add on to your work. But you can start controlling them with some lawn care, as soon as you identify what type they are. So to learn more on this subject, you can further read below.
Lawn Pest 1: Spider Mites
You’ll know they’re present when the colors of the leaves start to lose their green pigment (leaving only white spots). You’ll also see white and fine webs attached on the leaves and stems. You can get rid of them by simply spraying some insecticidal soap, or some miticides, for about 3 times, for 3 day periods.
Lawn Pest 2: Cinch Bugs
Cinch bugs are lawn pests that are usually responsible for the irregular yellow patches that can be seen on the lawn (shows up during the dry summer weather). So to kill these insects and to control the damage, use an organic pest control that is specifically designed for Chinch Bug use. Also treat your lawn once every three weeks until it shows improvements.
Lawn Pest 3: Grubs
Grubs are also lawn pests, and can cause dead turf patches during early spring, and late summer. So to be able to get rid of these pests you can use a specialized organic control for Grubs like the Milky Spore Grub Control, during the previously mentioned seasons.
Lawn Pest 4: Moles and Voles
Now, another kind of lawn pest are the Moles and Voles. Signs of their invasions usually show in lawns that have already formed long trails of hollow ridges of soils. You’ll know these pests are present when you start to notice holes underground, that usually serve as tunnels. So what you can do next is to control the population of soil insects (or use an organic pest control for moles like the Holy Moley- Mole Repellent). In this way, the moles and voles will be left with nothing else to eat. You can also choose to use spike-straps for when these are present in your turf.
Lawn Pest 5 :Aphids
These insects are present when the leaves in your lawn start to curl, and then wither soon after. These insects also leave out a sticky and transparent material that may also attract ants to the plant. So what you can do to treat these affected areas by Aphids, is to pump water directly on these insects. Or if you want to do it in a less harsh manner, you can always use insecticidal soaps or an organic insect killer (not an organic weed killer) to get rid of them.
Lawn Pest 6: Lace bugs are pests that can also be seen present in lawns. They’re usually the ones responsible for plants that look not-so lively anymore; and for leaves to have spots on them due to color loss. You may be able to rid of these insects by simply spraying some insecticide on the foliage’s base. You may apply this organic insect control three times, for 7 to 10 day periods.
So now that you have some information on lawn pest classifications and management tips, you’ll know what to do when these insects become present in your turf. So start caring for your lawns, and keep it maintained always.
 Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellant is a product that is eco-friendly and is all organic. It is a certified product that you can safely use around your family and pets. It is also made with botanical oils, and has a fresh scent to it. And not only that, you can use these on your lawns, on landscaped areas, and shrubs. Purchase yours now, and get your Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellant with a 100% money-back guarantee.
To know more about the product, check the Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellent here.
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Tags: garden pest, kinds of garden pests, lawn pest, organic pest control, pest killer, pesticide
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August 3rd, 2010
Saving and storing your kitchen scraps for composting is one of the most effective ways when it comes to recycling. Composting in the kitchen is very cost-effective, and would only require a supply of your regular organic wastes. Apart from that, kitchen composting can also be used as an alternative to worm composting.
There are a variety of options on what kind of bin to use in the kitchen. And compared to a big wooden worm bin that’s typically used in the garden (which typically uses red wiggler worms), you may simply use compost crocks, pails, or buckets as an alternative kitchen compost bin. You may also choose to improvise on your containers by using coffee cans, and/or reused detergent or paint plastic buckets. But if you’d like your bin to aesthetically blend in your cooking area, then you may opt to buy one that is commercially made.
If you choose to use a compost crock (usually made out of ceramic or stainless steel), or a compost pail or bucket (usually made out of plastic or steel), then these can definitely help store your organic food wastes on a countertop (where you can easily access it). Using compost crocks for home composting, that are set with charcoal strainers (to help contain the smell of the food wastes) are usually not noticeable, compared to compost buckets that are a little bigger on appearance. This compost bucket also has an odor-filtering system by means of an air-tight lid feature.
A worm composting bin can be made easy, as improvising on a few household items for composting purposes can also be done – you can learn more about this from or article: How to Build a Vermicompost Bin. Composting bins in the form of coffee cans, and/or reused detergent or paint plastic buckets can also be used in the kitchen. You may also opt to place these probably near your kitchen door. Anyway, coffee cans with lids are usually used for putting in organic wastes that are usually not many in quantity (especially if you’re not producing much waste in a day). You can easily store this in your kitchen cupboard, or in the refrigerator (refrigerating it can also help control the odor). Reused detergent or paint plastic buckets (should still have lids) on the other hand, can also be used as a container for keeping organic scraps. Before using these, make sure that you’ve already washed off the chemicals inside. These big containers can also be able to store a lot of kitchen wastes for you for many days. But you may have to try putting in some Bokashi compost mix to help contain the odors from your pile.
A kitchen eco composter as opposed to a worm bin, can be less tedious to work with. No worms will be involved in the composting process, so there’s less to take care for. Composting in the kitchen is simple and can also provide so many beneficial things.
For only $39.95, use the Bamboo Compost Pail for your kitchen composting needs, as it offers dual charcoal filter that helps control the odors from your food scraps. And not only that, it’s also dishwasher friendly, and can be carried comfortably. You can put this on your countertop, as it also blends well in your cooking area.
To know more about the product, check the Bamboo Compost Pail here.
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Tags: compost tumbler, composting, composting bin, composting tumbler, kitchen compost bin, kitchen composting
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